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PUB GUIDE WINE OF THE WEEK
Klaus Egel’s wine of the week: Chardonnay Golden Cut 2021
The Chardonnay Golden Cut 2021 from the Steindorfer winery not only looks the part – it is also
A special wine in every respect.
The concept of the “golden ratio” was already known to scholars in ancient times. Since then, it has appeared again and again in mathematics, the natural sciences, fashion, graphics and image composition. It always stands for something special, almost magical, that explains many things but never reveals its ultimate secret. This wine from Ernst and Junior Roland Steindorfer is named after him and combines a glamorous exterior with a valuable interior. The mighty bottle with the golden label and wax capsule is not simply placed on the table – it is made to appear. She is sure to attract attention, and she deserves it.
Concrete egg and barrique
Because anyone who thinks this is just glamorous packaging doesn’t know the Steindorfers very well. What they do has a lot to offer, and not just with their red wines – they can also make white wine and have even won a regional award with their Muskateller. In this case, however, they have already changed the way the wine is made. 30 percent of the Chardonnay is aged in concrete vats, the other 70 percent in new barriques, after which it is blended back. The result is a modern Chardonnay that is structured and surprisingly mineral despite its relatively low acidity.
The Burgundy glass is a must
Bourbon vanilla and caramel initially dominate the aroma, while delicate smoky aromas remain discreetly in the background, followed by honey notes, milk chocolate, exotic fruits with pineapple and delicate citrus notes. Fleshy and juicy on the palate, but also mineral and taut; a distinctive blend of opulent fruit and mineral structure, underlined by delicate bitter tones, yet never broad, opulent or tiring. The Burgundy glass is mandatory, decanting can’t hurt. I can well imagine this wine with a simple dish like a lobster gröstl or a saddle of veal with morel cream sauce!
Rating: 19/20 points
